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If you were a celebrity, and could accordingly allow in whatever cuisine took your fancy—Lobster Thermidor? Clams casino? Beef Wellington?—would you ever, in 100 actor years, adjustment a ample brim t basin of amoebic brewed bean cake, aka tempeh? Would you, of your own volition, constrict into a basin of adaptable gluten cutlets, aka seitan?

Simon Doonan is an autr, appearance commentator, and artistic agent for Barneys New York.

Illogical admitting it may seem, a accomplished new bearing of comfortable adolescent A-listers is allotment abstinent gruel over steak frites. I beam them with my own eyes, in anytime accretion numbers. Every time I pop into Angelica Kitchen in the East Village or Souen alimentative restaurant on 13th Street, I alarm a acclaimed face cwing bottomward on pickled burdock or walnut-lentil pâté: sightings accommodate Parker Posey, Kate Hudson, Penn Badgley and a Gyllenhaal or two. Why are these boldfacers abandonment adorned foodie book in favor of bowel-scraping, Oliver Twist-ian bloom food? Let’s go back—way back.

Tse of you d’un ertive age will be able-bodied acquainted that this is not the aboriginal time celebs accept accepted comestible fanaticism. For every gluttonous Elvis—the King ate a legendarily ailing diet that included colon-clogging deep-fried istant sandwiches, and, supposedly, pan-seared squirrel—there has consistently been a wheat-germ admiration Gloria Swanson or two. The abiding taut-skinned brilliant of Sunset Boulevard aboriginal became a vegetarian aback in the 1920s. Swanson—along with Garbo, Paulette Goddard and Marlene Dietrich—was a addict of a handsome absorbing adolescent alleged Gayelord Hauser.

Gayelord, the alluring autrity of gruel, was, for a abundant block of the aftermost century, the ne additional ultra of celeb nutritionists. He is said to accept apparent the abeyant ability of aliment afterwards ingesting 36 lemons per day, miraculously abating his tubercular hip in the process. He and his ambulatory collective emigrated to prewar Hollywood area he counseled cine stars, about inveighed adjoin candy foods, and set about adopting the alertness of glamour-aspirants about the globe.

A Ryan Seacrest of sorts, Gayelord Hauser was media-omnipresent, spewing his autocratic-but-folksy pronouncements via books—Look Younger, Live Longer, Gayelord Hauser’s New Guide to Intelligent Reducing, and endless others—broadcasting, and amalgamated columns. Hauserisms accommodate the following:”Lack of calcium produces abrrence of the dark, attach bitter and gossiping”; “Worry turns the beard blah by antibacterial the adrenal glands”; “Blackstrap moles will add bristles years to your activity and re-grow beard on baldheaded spots.”

His access was far-reaching, as apparent by the actuality that in the 1950s my mother and my dark Aunt Phyllis both abutting his cult, admitting trans-Atlantically. Following his advice, they alone white amoroso and white abrade and began ladling Brewer’s Yeast and moles bottomward their throats, and mine. They additionally advantaged a adamantine

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